Sanding with 220 grit with only a few passes it looks like I sanded through the two coats down to wood!? My problem involves quoting the instructions on the can and giving some background into my process. Should I have used a finer grit? No one I know of has ever suggested 21 coats of poly. Apply a final coat of polyurethane within 48 hours of the previous coat. A couple light swipes may be all that's needed, especially -- again -- if the poly is still curing. You have to sand those with very light sandpapers. Sand with 220 grit after first coat and wipe down with a tack cloth. Wiping down with warm soapy water would have probably been the first thing I would have tried :-). Matt there is a difference between oiling a piece and poly on a piece. I did 2, what I thought were, thin coats 3 days apart and the last one was 2 days previous to now. "Hot-coating" (applying a second coat of poly over the first without sanding) has become an accepted technique. How to solve the behandla problem — removing or avoiding sticky oil residue. Ignoring that it's not needed for adhesion what it does is pointlessly remove varnish you just applied, only to be replaced by more varnish in the next layer(s)! This is just like the directions for some stains and for oil/varnish blends, where supposedly only by applying a liberal excess of the product and then wiping almost all of it off can good results be achieved. What happens if you forget to sand between polyurethane coats? If any blemishes or bumps are still seen, use the same sanding process to remove them. The highlighted portion is part of the problem we face in the woodworking world: that even manufacturer instructions can't be trusted to be accurate. Sand the urethane surface a second time in preparation for a third coat. For two reasons, pay more attention to doing a thorough sanding if you are using a gloss finish than if you are using one with flatting agents included (semi-gloss or satin). Remove all dust. How to sustain this sedentary hunter-gatherer society? On the other hand, polyurethane stains require something different. [My emphasis]. According to whose tradition, with what intent and for what use? Polyurethane is typically my go-to finish, but I'd always just kind of done it how dad showed me rather than reading the instructions, sanding with fine grain between coats, or not at all if it's still "tacky." It always seems to turn out fine, but recently I read the back of the can and it said to wait 4 hours between coats (i.e. It only takes a minute to sign up. Although some sanding between coats is needed for some users, it's actually a very self-serving direction on the part of the manufacturers as they're assuring you use more of the product than needed. Work the urethane finish with the grit side of the sandpaper lightly in one direction. Can you have a Clarketech artifact that you can replicate but cannot comprehend? So I am playing with finishes for the first time and experimenting with polyurethane. What is this part of an aircraft (looks like a long thick pole sticking out of the back)? Remove all dust. Allow each coat to dry fully. site design / logo © 2020 Stack Exchange Inc; user contributions licensed under cc by-sa. To subscribe to this RSS feed, copy and paste this URL into your RSS reader. I got confused since poly is a oil based product that I thought it was like tung, blo or something in that vein. Accidentally used steel wool before water based poly. Poly is a varnish then... dammit. Why do I need to turn my crankshaft after installing a timing belt? And actually it's not needed between coats of any varnish and never has been . I left the table to cure in my shed. Are my poly coats to thin? There is no substitute for sanding between each coat if you want the best finish. To give the subsequent poly layers something to bond to, sand lightly between coats with 320-grit sandpaper wrapped around a hard block. Since I don't need an exercise in futility I opted for 3 coats. Thanks again as always. What does commonwealth mean in US English? Coat the entirety of your workpiece, but don't brush excessively or you'll create areas with too little polyurethane. Issue with that was my shed seems to have become a haven for boxelder bugs. Typically the sandpaper should be run over the surface in the same direction as the wood grain. Nonetheless, water-based stains will always require you to sand between the coats of stain. And actually it's not needed between coats of any varnish and never has been. I get the best result building or refinishing furniture when I thin oil based urethane 3 parts urethane- 1 part mineral spirits for the first coat. home | projects | blog. When applying polyurethane, brush along the grain, stretching the polyurethane … I wouldn't at all be surprised by this, sanding properly — not just scuff-sanding where you're only looking to scratch the surface — will very easily break through only a couple of layers of poly. There are uncountable examples of this to prove the point, as Bob Flexner makes some reference to in The 7 Myths of Polyurethane on Popular Woodworking. From other answers on WW I understand that applying only a few coats of poly can be sufficient but traditionally you could use as many as 21 over the course a year. Apply second coat. Aside from the lack of sanding between coats I adhered to the instructions rather well. If manufacturers were truly interested in helping their customers to apply the product most effectively, as they say or imply, what they would do is give people specific tips on how to apply smooth, even coats of varnish such that no sanding would normally be required (except to de-nib). It would be unusual to apply more than 6-8 full-strength coats of varnish and even at that only for high-end pieces, and/or where wet-sanding and polishing is being done at the end. The tack cloth will remove small particles of wood dust created by the light sanding. G.K. Bayne is a freelance writer for various websites, specializing in back-to-basics instructional articles on computers and electrical equipment. where varnish is applied in a clean-air environment, sanding between coats is never done as far as I'm aware. For the rest of the project I skipped the sanding, but I would like to know what I did wrong. « back to Finishing forum. This is very far from the truth, and it wouldn't be an exaggeration to say it can waste 95% of the product that goes on the wood. It seems to work better if done right after the first coat has dried, perhaps because it's still polymerizing. This depends on the specific varnish -- viscosity varies and some build faster than others -- and how you apply it (padding typically puts down a thinner coat than a well-handled brush) -- but three-to-five coats should give you as much protection as most things will need, and can give you quite a nice shine. How do rationalists justify the scientific method. [Useful trick while I'm here: After the varnish has really cured, a brown paper bag is just abrasive enough to knock loose dust specks caught in the surface and polish it a bit.]. Depending on temperature and humidity, it may take up to 24 hours for the urethane to thoroughly dry before the first sanding. Then lightly sand entire surface with fine sandpaper (220 grit) to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Never sand a tacky surface as the grit of the sandpaper will quickly become clogged with the polyurethane material. The sanding between coats accomplishes two things: It removes defects from the applied urethane as well as small dust particles lodge in the dry finish. The most egregious part of this is that sanding is not needed to ensure adhesion between fresh coats of poly. It should be done for one reason only: de-nibbing, where it serves a specific, and necessary function for most users. Referencing steps from the directions on the can and the Minwax website. Is it bad to sand extra-fine before applying Poly? I did not sand between coats; again because it is not required between coats (Again based on other answers required). How to efficiently check if a matrix is a Toeplitz Matrix. reply from a potential PhD advisor? 20 posts in 1281 days. Possibly, but I think you should have first tried a non-sanding approach. After the first coat, all you are trying to do is remove the bumps and scuff the surface for the next coat, so 220 is just too rough.

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